Postcard from Andalusia
Apologies for going silent for the last few weeks. I was on vacation in southern Spain. I had every intention of making pithy postings during my travels, but two days into the trip, I sprained (at least that’s what I think it was) my right wrist – my dominant hand – which made tapping at computer keys excruciating. Thus, I had no choice but to devote my energies to the sights, sounds, and tastes of Andalusia.
Worse things could happen, I suppose.
To me, Andalusia should be on everyone’s bucket list. But don’t go there for the grand cathedrals — though Seville’s is certainly grand (it’s the world's largest Gothic cathedral) and, to my taste, a bit gaudy (the amount of gold expended on the altar might even make Trump blush). Go for the sublime Moorish structures and sensual gardens, remnants of Al-Andalus, when much of the Iberian Peninsula was under Muslim rule from the 8th to the 15th centuries. The vast Alhambra compound in Granada, dating back to the 13th century, is beyond mesmerizing. And the Moorish mosque that’s the foundation of Cordoba’s cathedral (the Christian additions are unfortunate) is singularly spectacular — up there with the Hagia Sophia, in my opinion.
I could go on about other must-sees, such as the Royal Alcázar in Seville and flamenco. Alas, my wrist is still painful (an appointment with an orthopedic surgeon awaits), and my ability to write is limited. Permit me, then, to let the pictures tell the story.
GRANADA: home to the Alhambra. Stay two to three nights
RONDA: a striking town built along the sides of a deep gorge. Stay for a night or make it a day trip between Granada and Seville — both about two hours away. Other “white” towns along the way worthy of a stop: Setenil de las Bodegas, where houses are built onto rock cliffs, and Grazalema, situated in a stunning mountain setting. But skip the oft-touted Arcos de la Frontera, which I found dreary.
SEVILLE: Stay three to four nights. The Royal Alcazar is not as famous as Alhambra but it’s hardly a poor cousin. The structures are every bit as intricate and beguiling.
CORDOBA: You are there for one reason: to see the Mosque-Cathedral (yup, that’s what it’s called) so one night in town is probably adequate. That said, our hotel, Balcón de Córdoba, was by far my favorite on the trip. Every inch of the place was exquisitely designed — think Islamic chic. We were upgraded to a meandering suite with windows that opened onto fragrant orange trees in a lovely courtyard.
The food: We had some very good meals — and some mediocre ones. After 10 days, the food started to feel a bit monotonous and heavy. (I know Spain is studded with Michelin-starred restaurants but Michelin is not my thing.) How many times can one ingest jamón ibérico, Rabo de Toro (oxtail stew), chorizos, and croquetas? For variety, we went to a couple of Moroccan restaurants and, on the last day, a pizzeria in Madrid (NAP Chueca, a dive that served superb Neapolitan pizza).
Ole!
Vivia
My other recent travels:
New apologies for taking some wonderfully spent time off. That’s a part of Spain that I have wanted to visit for many years and haven’t gotten there yet. Thanks for sharing those beautiful pictures. Wishing you relief from pain. So sorry for your injury.
I just missed you?! I’ll be in Andalusia in exactly one week: similarly the usual ( Ronda, Sevilla, Cordoba, Granada…) We should have met up somewhere! 😢 Love your “postcards from…”