It was supposed to be a working vacation. But Sicily has been a total distraction. Flitting from one ancient site to another, gorging on pasta con sarde, and sampling a new wine every night (Grillo is now my favorite) can be quite exhausting. By 11 pm (no self-respecting Sicilian dines before 9 pm), I’m spent. I practically have to crawl to the gelateria for my three little scoops of pistachio, hazelnut, and pear gelato.
Our extended sojourn to Sicily was accidental, and I blame it on the Catholic Church. We intended to spend most of April in Rome searching for an apartment. (Yes, I’m escaping from you-know-who. Don’t judge.) But then we realized we’d be in Rome during Easter when the faithful flood the city, and during a Jubilee year at that. So we pivoted, opting to spend a few days in Sicily. Then, lo and behold, the pope dies! With nearly half a million mourners crowding the Eternal City, what could we do but stay put in Sicily?
But Sicily is hardly a consolation prize. It’s Italy but it’s not. Colonized by Greeks during the 8th century BC, it has some of the finest Greek temples in the world. And there’s a distinct Islamic flavor to its architecture, art, and cuisine — a legacy from the Arab rule from the 9th to 11th centuries. There was also a significant Jewish presence in Sicily that dates back to Roman times; to this day, some street signs are in Italian, Arabic, and Hebrew — a testament to its multiculturalism.
But I’m not here to give you a history lesson. To me, Sicily is about the senses: the haunting majesty of the Greek temples at dusk, the shimmer of the mosaics at the Palatine Chapel in Palermo, and the whimsical fantasy of Baroque architecture in Noto — to name just a few snapshots. The landscape is impossibly beautiful: ancient towns hanging on cliffs framed by a cerulean sea and rugged mountains studded by rocks and wildflowers. And, of course, there’s the food. The food!
Breakfast, Sicilian style. Note the fresh cannolis.
Pasta alla Norma (left) and rigatoni with swordfish (right).
Fennel and orange salad (left) and tomato and caper salad (right).
My personal Sicily. Here’s my itinerary (circling the island from the west, starting from Palermo, and ending in Siracusa), plus recommendations for hotels and restaurants. Keep in mind, I prefer smaller hotels and local cuisine rather than Michelin places which are almost exclusively packed with foreigners with money to burn. And speaking of costs, Sicily is still remarkably reasonable, certainly compared with Milan, where the prices now seem even higher than New York City
San Cataldo (left) and interior of Palatine Chapel (right).
WHERE TO STAY: Palazzo Natoli. Small, chic hotel (but no elevator). Top location for sights. (We also stayed at the Grand Hotel et Des Palmes, one of the city’s top luxury hotels. Overrated and inconvenient, though breakfast was wonderful.)
DAY TRIPS: Fantastic mosaics in Monreale and Cefalu’.
Trapani. One to two nights.
WHERE TO STAY: historic section. (We made the mistake of staying out of town in what I thought was a country estate that turned out to be located in a dreary area filled with modern apartments.)
DAY TRIPS: use Trapani as a base to see Segesta, Erice (the drive up is breathtaking, and it’s home to Maria Grammatico, a legendary bakery), and some of the surrounding islands, such as the Phoenician island city of Mozia and the ancient salt pans.
Maria Grammatico’s bakery. Heavenly.
More treats from Maria Grammatico.
Agrigento: One night.
MUST SEE: Valle dei Templi, an incredible collection of Greek temples. If you miss this site, you haven’t been to Sicily.
The view from our hotel, Villa Athena.
WHERE TO STAY: the only place to stay is Villa Athena which has a direct view of the Concordia temple (5th century BC) from its pool terrace where you can lounge, sip wine, and pretend you’re a Greek god. Plus private entrance to the temples.
Highly recommend: Ristorante La Scala (in town). A sublime restaurant in an elegant townhouse. First-rate Sicilian cuisine.
Daytrip: Villa Romana del Casale. A vast, remarkably well-preserved 4th century AD Roman villa with stunning mosaics. An absolute must-see.
Noto and Ragusa: Two nights.
Both are charming towns renowned for their exuberant Baroque architecture. Of the two, Noto is perhaps the more fashionable sister, offering stylish boutiques, a lively art scene, and a cooler party atmosphere.
Go for Baroque in Noto!
WHERE TO STAY: Dimora Santagatha, a small boutique hotel in Noto with serious design chops (think Jil Sander).
Taormina. Two nights.
WHAT TO SEE: the Greek-Roman amphitheater and every nook and cranny in town. It’s simply a lovely town with spectacular views of Mount Etna. We skipped it on this trip so I can’t give you hotel suggestions. But if you’re a White Lotus devotee, you already know where to stay.
DAY TRIP: Mount Etna.
Siracusa: One night or day trip from Noto.
WHAT TO SEE: Ortigia, the historic section, and the Archaeological Park Neapolis which comprises a Roman amphitheater, a Greek theater, and the Orecchio di Dionisio, a giant cave shaped like a human ear. Though the park is impressive, it felt a bit anticlimactic after Agrigento, Segesta, and Taormina. (Am I getting jaded?)
WHERE TO STAY: Ortigia or the countryside. (But don’t stay in Siracusa itself, which is modern and pedestrian.) We stayed at Donna Caroly, a low-key country estate with lovely gardens, two inviting pools, and a first-rate restaurant that’s reportedly frequented by Mick Jagger (he has a home in Noto) about a 15 minute drive from town.
I’m a huge fan of Sicily’s. If you need advice about the island, shoot me a line.
Baci!
Vivia
Vivia Chen, Ex-Careerist depends on readers like you. If you’re a regular reader, please consider becoming a paid subscriber.
Exactly!! Yes, yes, and yes. I was there three years ago when I thought I’d return for every October for the rest on my life! Uh… haven’t gotten back but Judy will be in Sicily this October. I’m sending her this. We should all meet up there (instead of Texas).
My roots, ya know. Near Cefalu. Big Maggio reunions there.
Exactly!! Yes, yes, and yes. I was there three years ago when I thought I’d return for every October for the rest on my life! Uh… haven’t gotten back but Judy will be in Sicily this October. I’m sending her this. We should all meet up there (instead of Texas).